The start of day was not as smooth as we would have liked. We were able to buy a two day metro pass at the tobacco shop by the tram stop, but then things went awry for a bit. We got on the wrong tram, but again our local fellow travelers got us on the correct path with very clear instructions to connect to the subway (U-Bahn). Like Prague, the connections between tram and train were very smooth. Our plan was to go on a guided walking tour. We arrived to what we thought was the correct location and time, but apparently we were wrong. We couldn’t find the tour or anyone who knew anything about it. With some directions from local citizens and our Rick Steves Guide to Vienna, we found our way to the Tourist Information Center where we got maps and info with clear directions for a 2 PM guided walking tour. We then decided it was time for a cappuccino, tea and a morning snack. (It’s what we referred to as Elevenses when we were in Australia.)

Since it was only noon, we decided to start out on the Rick Steves Walking Tour of Vienna. He includes a map, clear directions and interesting descriptions. As the 2 PM tour time approached, we decided to stick with Rick Steves. There is a good amount of info in the descriptions, and we can go at our own pace. Since Vienna is the “world capital of classical music”, the tour started at the Opera House. The building, build in 1869, is an amazing example of neo-renaissance. Since we are not big opera fans, we did not take a guided tour of the opera house. Instead, we went to the Albertinaplatz which has a powerful Monument against War and Fascism. It addresses the victims of all wars in general and victims of the Nazis in particular. Austria was annexed by Germany in 1938, and then occupied by the Allies from 1945 – 1955. (Half of the inner city was bombed by the Allies.) Upon gaining its independence, Austria needed to agree to stay neutral and not join either NATO or the Warsaw pact.

A walking tour of Vienna would not be complete without mentioning Kartner Strasse. It is a pedestrian only street dotted with outdoor cafes and modern stores in old world buildings. It is the street that the Crusaders traveled down on their way to the Holy Land from St. Stephen’s Cathedral. Following the recommendations of Rick Steve and an enthusiastic local, we did detour off Kartner Strasse to go the the Imperial Crypt in Kaisergruft. It is where 150 Hapsburg royalty rest. It was moving to see fresh flowers on or near crypts from 100 or more years ago. Next we came upon the Four Rivers Fountain which symbolizes the rivers that flow into the Danube. St. Stephen’s Cathedral, on Stephansplatz, was next on our journey. It was built between 1300 and 1450. At the time it was considered to be very big church in a very small town. As a result it was a major factor in the growth of Vienna. The grandeur of the altar and the interior match the splendor of the exterior. Its 450 foot tower is very impressive and provides wonderful views of the city. In the course of our travels today we observed the light on the tower in late morning, mid-afternoon and again at 5:30 p.m. We found the early evening lighting the best.
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In 1679, like most of Europe, Vienna had an epidemic of bubonic plague which killed about a third of the population. Emperor Leopold I went on his knees to beg God to save Vienna. The Holy Trinity Plague Column honors the emperor’s unusual action. He also had St. Peter’s Church built in thanksgiving. It is a beautiful Baroque style church. We were lucky enough to hear the last of a wonderful performance by the organist and a mezzo soprano singer. We decided that this would be a good stopping point for the day. We had a lovely dinner at an outside cafe before venturing back “home”. Our trip home was very straightforward with no wrong turns, trams or trains. We will continue our tour tomorrow and see what other Vienna treasures await us.