Monthly Archives: September 2019

Scotland, Day 12 (15 September)

Being Sunday, we decided to have a more leisurely start to our day. Unfortunately, Peggy woke up early and couldn’t go back to sleep, so she got up and did some laundry. That woke me up so I decided to work on the blog.  We had wanted to visit the Inverness City Museum today to learn more of the history of the Scottish Highlands but, unfortunately, it is closed on Sundays.  So, instead, we went to the Highlander’s Museum at Ft. George and later to Dufftown where the Glenfiddich distillery is located (I’m a big fan of their single malt whiskey). We finally got started about 10 AM.

We headed first to the Highlanders Museum at Fort George, about 25 minutes away.  Although it was built after the Battle of Culloden, in the second half of the 18th century, it is still an active military base (although it is soon to be deactivated).

The fort is extremely large and is one of the best defended fortresses in the world. There are beautiful views around all sides from the ramparts. They have many exhibits showing how the soldiers lived and fought in the 18th century with lots of uniforms, weapons, flags, banners, musical instruments, medals and other paraphernalia. There was an historic barrack showing how soldiers had to sleep 6 in a bed (later 2 to a bed) and how a few soldiers had wives who slept in the same barracks and performed domestic duties for all the soldiers in the same barrack. (It could not have been pleasant.)

In the Garrison Chapel, there was a stained window depicting an angel playing a bagpipe.

In the Highlanders’ Museum, there were many interesting exhibits about regimental life from the late 1700s. There were also interesting exhibits about clan life in general, the effect of British restrictions on clan life and structure after the Jacobite defeat at the Battle Culloden, and how the formation of the Highlander regiments helped to restore some of the clan structure.

Since we spent so much time at the fort and museum, we bypassed our planned trip to Cawdor Castle and headed straight to the distillery. We had only been able to reserve one ticket for the distillery tour on-line, but we had no problem getting two more tickets for Peggy and Beth. The tour was not as detailed as the Bushmill Distillery tour, but it was much more informal and pleasant. It’s interesting that making whiskey is so much like brewing beer with the singular exception of distilling the alcohol. In the U.S. the fermented wort from which the alcohol is distilled is even called bier (not beer) although here they call it the wash. The big difference, other than distilling the spirits, is the addition of hops to the beverage and the subsequent carbonation. We ended the tour with 3 samples of whiskey, one 12 year old, one 15 year old and one 18 year old single malt. Needless to say, they were all great, but the 18 year old was something else again.

After our distillery tour, we had dinner at a local hotel/restaurant called the Copper Dog.  Dinner was absolutely wonderful and the desserts were out of this world.  At dinner, we met 4 Americans, one of whom was celebrating his 50th birthday. We chatted a bit over dinner and exchanged travel yarns. Afterwards, we returned to our lodging and started getting ready for our departure tomorrow morning.

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