England, Day 20 (23 September)

After a comfortable night, we awoke to partly cloudy skies with some peaks of sun instead of the predicted rain. The views just from our window and the yard are amazing!

We had breakfast with a lovely couple from just outside London who gave us some tips on places to stay close to London rather than staying in the city itself. They also gave us suggestions on what to see in London. Peggy advised them on where to go in the states to see fall colors.

View from Castle Crag

After breakfast, we consulted with our host what trails would be best for us. Peggy is a walker, not a hiker. We got our stuff together and headed out. We met some very friendly people along the way. Most of the trails weren’t very steep, but there was one part of the trail leading over a hill called Castle Crag that was quite steep and rocky. It was reminiscent of walking on receded glaciers. At times it was rough going for Peggy and she was glad she had her hiking poles! The views made the effort worth it! More than once, we made wrong turns as the trail frequently branched off in other directions. With the help of some very kind hikers we made our way to our destination, Rosthwaite. Coming down the hill was much easier than going up as the slope was much less steep much less rocky. We followed the trail over a small fence and through the field with sheep. We can’t quite imagine being allowed to walk through a farmer’s sheep field back home in the US.

Although it was only a 2.5 mile walk, it took us about 2 hours. Part of the time we chatted with hikers, but a good part of it was spent climbing Castle Crag. It was slow going being sure we planted our feet solidly on the rocky path. When we reached Rosthwaite, we headed straight for the pub for a pint of local brew for Wayne and a cup of tea for Peggy. We still had another 3 miles to go to get back, but we could take the road to Grange instead of going back over the hill. By this time, Peggy was pretty well worn out, so she took the local bus back to Grange while Wayne walked it (about 1 hour). We met at the cafe 1/2 mile from our lodging, had a snack and walked the remaining distance to our lodging.

While waiting for Wayne, Peggy learned about some local history. In an effort to make better use of church buildings during the week, three of the churches in the Borrowdale area have informational displays about the history of the area. There is evidence of people being in the area since the Stone Age. In the 10th century, Scandinavians came here from Ireland. Their influence lingers in terms used. Thwaite means clearing, fell means mountain and beck means stream. Borrowdale came from Borg for fort and Dalr for valley.
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The Lake District

Since we are surrounded by hills, mountains and fields full of sheep, the song “The Prime of Miss Jean Brodie” keeps running through Peggy’s mind. Some of the lines are: “Come out to the meadow, Jean,…And run, if you will, to the top of the hill, …Till the sheep in the valley come home my way…”

After another relaxing evening in front of the fire, we headed to bed early. We will drive to just outside London tomorrow.

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