Day 41, Aug 27: Seattle Underground

Pioneer Square

We have had another beautiful day to explore Seattle. Amy accompanied us on the “Underground Tour” of Pioneer Square. Pioneer Square is one of the largest historic districts in the country. The National Historic Preservation Act of 1966 lead to the preservation of many of the beautiful old buildings. The city of Seattle was settled on filled tidal flats which meant the streets flooded daily with high tide. When the entire business district and wharves burned in an 1889 fire that started in a cabinet shop, the city leaders decided to build a seawall to keep out the tides and use dirt from the surrounding cliffs to fill in the flats. Since the project would take years, the merchants couldn’t afford to wait and immediately started rebuilding – with stone or brick and not wood.

When the project was finished, street level was between 8 & 35 feet higher than the entrances to the shops. There were frequent accidents with carts, horses, barrels of goods and people falling from the raised streets. While there were no deaths in the fire, there were numerous deaths from people falling or objects falling on people. The city fathers responded by building walkways, using the Roman arches technique, from the street to the shops. Shop entrances were now at the raised street level with the original ground level forming the underground. Over the years, the underground has been used for many activities including storage, flop houses for the homeless, brothels and Speakeasies. A small section has been restored and is open for guided tours. The tours make history come alive.

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Following the tour we had lunch at the Central Saloon which, according to our tour guide, is the oldest in Seattle. The saloon is directly across the street from the Shotgun Wedding Chapel where Peggy and I decided to do “the right thing”. Afterwards, we headed to the Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park near Pioneer Square. Seattle grew to a bustling city as a result of the Klondike Gold Rush. It was the place where miners bought their Canadian Mounty required 1 ton of gear and headed out in search of their dream and the successful miners returned to have their gold assayed and spend their money. There is a saying that Seattle made its fortune “mining the miners”. An interesting bit of history is that Donald Trump’s grandfather was one of the miners who mined the miners by running brothels in Seattle (and elsewhere) during the gold rush. There’s a lot of interesting history here and it’s a fun city to explore.